The Hemi Rebuild - Dual 4bbl Carb Power!

Well... I can honestly say with my hand on my heart that I never thought I would have to make a page like this, but, as most of you reading this know, it's not all roses in the custom car game. Big boys toys can come with big boy problems. Sadly, with only a mere 2,000 miles on the odometer... the 540 Hemi started to make a faint "knocking" sound. I picked up on it early and knew something wasn't right and stopped driving it immediately. It wasn't a loud "bashing" knock, but enough to signal the engine wasn't happy.

I limped it to Henrys Rod shop to see if they could help me figure it out. With some advice from the original engine builder (Tim Banning) he suggested we try a valve cover space kit as it sounded like rockers hitting the valve covers, after several weeks waiting for the kit to land, sadly it didn't cure the issues. Worth a try though.

Next we tried to replace the flex plate as it sounded very close to this area. Brand new plate in, ARP hardware and installed to spec, but sadly, the noise was still present. With these external engine remedies failing to cure the issue, Henry's and I knew there was only one real way to get to the bottom of it... pull the engine out and tear it down. Gutted.

A week passes and the Hemi is out, on a stand and off to a local Automotive engine / machine shop in Tauranga to tear it down. Long story short, it remained here for nearly 4 months, yes 4 MONTHS and all that had happened was a disassembly. I chased them up, went in, called, but just a lot of talk, excuses, and no movement. Nice enough people so they will be saved the embarrassment of being called out. The time was one factor and appalling, actually terrible, the other was they felt and seemed way out of their depth with Hemi experience and really had no idea. 350 Chevs and similar seemed like their area of expertise limits.

I made some calls and talked to a Mopar friend (Wayne) who owns, races and has a lot of real world experience with Hemis. He recommended two places, Reece Fish and Marsh Motorsports. not much choice in NZ so I had to pick one and commit.

I collected the Hemi from the Tauranga Automotive shop and took it up to Marsh Motorsports. After being handed a disassembled pile of Hemi parts, within a few weeks and in between other builds, Marsh Motorsports had a closer inspection of my engine. Conclusion: they said without a shadow of a doubt, it was "cylinder / bore wash". All cylinders had a decent amount of gasoline go through them and clean off the protectant layer of oil, leaving the pistons and rings to scuff.

The pushrod holes were also not big enough, allowing the pushrods to make contact with the holes themselves along with skimping on various items like timing chains and smaller parts that I had no say in. The pushrod contact was more than likely the "knocking sound". These were all thankfully picked up and rectified using high quality parts. My crank, camshaft, valves, springs, lifters, etc were all in perfect condition (only 2,000 miles on it) so thankfully, it was mainly pistons and rings to buy.

The main damage (cylinder wash) can be caused by faulty injectors, poor tune, poor break in procedure or all of the above. I was truely unaware of how bad it can be and the damage fuel wash can cause to an engine. This left a very sour taste in my mouth from the EFI experience. YEs, it can happen with carbs but with so many parts to an EFI system, it's more susceptible to these types of issues.

My EFI always felt slightly out and had some idle / throttle issues but overall, ran pretty well. Running well or not, sadly, at any stage, fuel wash caused by faulty injectors and/or ECU issues can happen. I'm not about to put myself at the hands of an ECU in this car again. With this in mind and a lot of research and consideration, I decided to go back to the Challengers muscle car roots and go for dual 4bbl carbs for the fuel feeding.

That's right! Carburetors! The majority of muscle and classic car owners still run carbs for a reason - simplicity. Less parts to go wrong. sure, EFI can run smooth (when dialed in) but when (not if) they malfunction or you have issues, trouble shooting them is a nightmare. Laptops or tuning shop required, so many parts to query, injectors, leaks, fuel rails, ECU problems, the tune itself, throttle bodies, IACs, the list goes on. With carbs, if there is something fuel related, it's the carb. That's it. In some cases, a simple screw driver will see you right or on the way home.

I considered this carb vs. EFI debate long and hard, research, soul searching, asking myself what the car wants and I know I 100% made the right decision. This is a 1970 muscle car, having carbs is part of it. I love my carbs, less crap, very similar driving experience with the added bonus of simplicity, ease and peace of mind. Two 4bbl carbs also just look fucken mean on top of that big ole Hemi! Lots of people are switching back from EFI to carbs. Seems the grass isn't always greener.

Carbs tuned right are on par with EFI for power and response, often making more power than their computer controlled competition, however, for some and in most debates or discussions on which is better, there are 2 main "cons" for running carbs that pop up more often than not. They are: fuel vapour lock (heat soak) and cold starts.

With vapor lock, your fuel line heats up after a long drive and if you go to fill up your car for example, the 10 mins you spend allows the heat of your engine with a mechanical fuel pump on the hot engine block to literally turn you fuel in your lines and bowls into vapour form and make it extremely hard to start. It literally goes from liquid to gas form and with no fuel in the lines, you're going to have a hard time starting or bringing getting it to flow again. Embarrassing at a busy petrol station forecourt mid-summer / holiday season.

Fuel vapour can be fixed by a carb spacer to distance the carb off the hot intake which helps a little but isn't a fix by itself. The best remedy is an electric in tank fuel pump. I already had one for my EFI setup and being in a cool gas tank far from engine, it has zero heat issues and because of the constant electric pump pressure, the fuel flow is instant.

My original 440ci Magnum had a 4bbl which had a mechanical pump on the block and on long drives and in summer temps, I suffered from my fair share of heat soak moments. As annoying as they are, there is a solution so that is no longer a "con" for carbs. In tank pump and carb spacer. Done!

As for cold starts? For me this was never an issue. I live in a micro climate which sees average (driving) temperatures of 10-12C (50F) in winter to 20C (68F) to 28C (82F) in summer. Sure it can get colder or hotter but I don't go driving in 5C (40F) temps, not enjoyable. Besides, when I am out in these colder starts or when I want to kick her over in winter, starting these classics is an art and fun! It takes a little feeling, a little gas, grab the throttle, bring the rpms up to 1,500-1,800rpm for a minute (to get oil flowing) and then once up to temp, off you go. Easy!

Carbs have also come along way with technology and tuning. My AVS2 series Edelbrock carbs have the more modern "annular boosters" which are awesome! In laymans terms, instead of one large jet of fuel, its smaller holes releasing fuel like a "misty spray" vs a "hose". This allows for better fuel atomization which equates to better bang, power, fuel economy and response. The annular Edelbrock carbs are as close as you can get to EFI response, I'd say 90% EFI drivability and I've had both. The 10% difference is an excellent trade off for the EFI issues I had and the simplicity and ease of tuning with the no frills carbs!

Once built, the 540ci Hemi mde a respectable 677hp and 651ft-lb. The Hemi was collected by Henrys and the dodge transported to them as well ready for the reinstall. Hamish my auto sparky removed the EFI injector cables, left the ECU to run the Dakota Digital dash and gauges and installs the new Autometer 0-15psi gauge, US Shift throttle position sensor and make sure everything was good to go. It was a relatively easy process to swap from EFI to carb on an engine that never had it. Main cost was the carbs, then EFI to carb regulator. The intake had to have the fuel rail holes plugged and painted over as well. This not only tidied up the engine and lost a little weight, we had to do it to be able to run the new fuel lines and carb throttle linkage.

The photo gallery below will show the process of tearing it down, the rebuild, parts used, etc. I thought I would share this experience, as it may actually help someone going through a similar issue (bore wash), or wanting to go EFI to carb. Despite what happened, it's still a fun project LOL. Even this shit excites me. Researching new pistons, regulators, carbs, AN fittings, etc all hours of the night to once again, resurrect and bring this big beast back to life: bigger and badder than ever!

Parts Used in EFI to Carb Conversion and Hemi Rebuild

Edelbrock AVS2 "Thunder Series" 650cfm Carb w/Electric Choke - Part # 1906
Edelbrock AVS2 "Thunder Series" 650cfm Carb w/Manual Choke - Part # 1905
Edelbrock AVS2 Series Calibration Kits (x 2) - Part # 1948
Edelbrock Accelerator Pump Nozzle Kits (x 2) - Part # 1475
Aeromotive EFI to Carb Dual Stage Fuel Pressure Regulator - Part # 13220
Aeromotive High Fuel Pressure Gauge (0-100psi) Part # 15633
Aeromotive Low Fuel Pressure Gauge (0-15psi) Part # 15632
Aeromotive Black 3/8" NPT to -8AN Fittings for Regulator Ports - Part # 15616
Aeromotive New 10 Micron Inline Fuel Filter - Part # 12650
Autometer Sport-Comp II Pro Control 0-15psi Fuel Pressure Gauge - Part # 3667
Fragola -8AN to 5/8-20" Fittings for Carb to AN Adapters - Part # 491967-BL
Fragola Black PTFE 6000 Hose and PTFE Fittings for "Fuel Log" Carb Feed
US Shift Throttle Position Sensor Kit for Edelbrock Carbs
Mr Gasket 160 Degree Thermostat - Part # 4366
Billet Specialties Thermostat Housing with O-Ring Gasket - Part # BSP-90820
VHT Hemi Orange 550F Engine Enamel Paint for Hemi = Part # SP120
VHT Gloss Clear 550F Engine Enamel Paint for Hemi = Part # SP145'
Performance Car Graphics Custom "540 HEMI" Air Cleaner Decals

/images/656226/DodgeChallengerknock1.jpeg

As soon as I heard the knock, driving ceased immediately. The Dodge went straight up on my hoist to try and locate the "knock" myself...
/images/656226/B_M_Flexplate_ARP_Bolts.jpeg

Time to start checking some basics by process of elimination. First we tried the flex plate and new ARP hardware as it did sound close to that area and flex plates can be off or "wobble". Installed and no change.
/images/656226/Cometic_Hemi_Spacer_Kit.jpeg

Next after some advice from the original engine builder, he suggested we try to install a Spacer Kit as it is possible for the rockers to hit the valve covers. Not sure why after only 2,000miles and a new build they would start to hit, when surely those spacings should have been dialled in prior but I followed his advice. Longer spark plug tubes were also needed other wise the originals would stretch and get damaged. They arrived after several weeks and installed but sadly, no change. Knock still present.
/images/656226/540_Hemi_Rockers.jpg

After a few more diagnostic attempts, pulley system wobble, transmission, converter, rockers, checking for collapsed lifters, etc with no success, there was really only one thing to do... time to tear down the engine.
/images/656226/Hemi_Out.jpeg

In order to do a proper tear down inspection, and eventual re-build, there is no other way to do it than the engine being removed. Within a few days of making the call, the 540ci Hemi was hoisted out from the Challenger's engine bay.
/images/656226/Dodge_Waiting.jpeg

Lucy waiting with all the other cars who also need work. I decided to bring her home while work was being done and help free up space at Henry's since the engine inspection and build would take several months. With parts delays, waiting for custom spec pistons, push rods, shops working on other vehicles, etc. If you've been through these builds, then you know exactly what I'm talking about! lol. Two lessons. It never gets done on time and it definitely never gets done under budget!!
/images/656226/Dodge_Challenger_No_Engine_02.jpeg

Back at home while the engine work is being completed. She looks amazing, good to see the engine bay, k-frame, etc all looking solid and fresh (as they should). Making the most of this bad experience! lol
/images/656226/Dodge_Challenger_No_Engine_01.jpeg

Closer up...
/images/656226/Dodge_Challenger_No_Engine_03.jpeg

The original #'s matching 375hp "440 Magnum" looking on wondering why all the fuss. lol Still stoked to have the Hemi and will get her dialled in properly (and locally!). Will eventually build the 440 up as a display engine, half way there. Just need manifolds, 4bbl carb, paint air cleaner, timing chain cover, etc. Very cool display piece!
/images/656226/Torqueflite_727_Rebuild_While_Engine_Out.jpeg

With the Hemi out, the transmission obviously had to be removed at the same time. I used this opportunity to really pep up the TF727 and change something that had always bugged me, the forward pattern manual valve body setup. Currently, while in traffic, going from [3] to [N] to let her idle or a quick rev while rolling, or even hopping in every time going from [P] to [1] (furtherest apart on a FMVB) was a rigmarole in a ratchet shifter. I had always wanted to rectify this at some stage by installing a REVERSE manual valve body (RMVB). [1] to [N] was one shift, [R] to [1] was 2. Clean easy and when the Hemi was at WOT, you're pushed back into the seat so grabbing the pistol grip to shift up a gear was easier to pull back with the flow, vs. against it, pushing the shifter forward. While getting this done, Chuck Mann installed a whole bunch of 727 racing goodies I ordered. You can see the full build on this website on the "Torqueflite Race Build" page.
/images/656226/Torqueflite_727_Rebuild_in_Excellent_Condition.jpeg

Some people might say it's a little bit overkill to build the trans as well since it was performing nicely and everything was perfect. Good to inspect it (no harm) while the Hemi was getting the same treatment and BEEF it up too.
/images/656226/540_Hemi_Torn_Down1.jpeg

The 540ci Hemi block after being completely torn down. Sad sight!
/images/656226/540_Hemi_Torn_Down_2.jpeg

From the front...
/images/656226/540_Hemi_Torn_Down_3.jpeg

The bottom end...
/images/656226/426_Keith_Black_Block.jpeg

Keith Black 426 Based Block.
/images/656226/Piston_Scuff_Cylinder_Wall_1.jpeg
/images/656226/Piston_Scuff_Cylinder_Wall_3.jpeg

The 4.505" bore showing some light contact scuffing.
/images/656226/Hemi_Piston_Scuff_Cylinder_Wall.jpeg
/images/656226/Piston_Scuff_Cylinder_Wall_2.jpeg

All cylinders scuffed...
/images/656226/Piston_Scuffed_1.jpeg

The CP pistons themselves (great pistons by the way and not their fault at all). You can clearly see the contact point and darker grey damage resulting from scuffing the wall.
/images/656226/Hemi_Piston_Scuffed.jpeg

Worse! The entire side profile making contact...
/images/656226/Hemi_Piston_Scuff.jpeg

All pistons had this damage, not 1 cylinder "having a bit of bad luck", all 8!!
/images/656226/Damaged_Pushrods_1.jpeg

Another finding was damaged 3/8" HD Manton push rods from inadequate tunnel clearance. The damage is clear to see, enough contact to literally make a groove.
/images/656226/Damaged_Push_Rods_2.jpeg

All 8 pushrods have to be replaced...
/images/656226/Push_Rod_Block_Clearance_Fail.jpeg

The contact point on the "tunnel" or pass through hole where the push rods were making contact.
/images/656226/Hemi_Engine_Waiting_Room.jpeg

The 540 Hemi standing out in the machine shop waiting room with Fords, Chevs, Holdens, Japanese, all kinds of builds and work going on. Very cool! Good or bad, you simply have to enjoy the experience. :)
/images/656226/540_Hemi_Collect.jpg

After being at a local Tauranga Engine / Automotive Reconditioning shop for nearly 4 MONTHS, my patience had worn thin. All that happened in that time was disassembly. Not good enough. Actually embarrasing. That and the fact they seemed out of their league with Hemis. I collected the Hemi and took it to Marsh Motorsports Ltd in Auckland whom came recommended by a good Mopar man I know who has, races and owns big cubes Hemis. I trust his wisdom. Very pleased to get it out of the Tauranga shop!
/images/656226/540_Hemi_Mopar_Parts.jpg

A better overview of all the parts in my van: block, crank, heads, intake, EFI, damaged pistons, sump, valve covers, the internals, bolt ons, etc, all accounted for. Right... now to take it to a proper Mopar shop!!
/images/656226/Aeromotive_Fuel_Filter.jpeg

While I'm waiting for the engine build, I got side tracked and will be buying a new Tank Inc EFI tank, 340LPH pump and floatless fuel sender. This is just a new fuel filter as I want everything fresh... having had cylinder / fuel wash, I don't want any risks with anything fuel related, old, stale, too much fuel... fuck me haha. Doing everything I can to be safe.
/images/656226/Hemi_Carb_Conversion_Parts_1.jpeg

Some new goodies while I wait for the engine build. What car guy doesn't enjoy these packages!
/images/656226/Hemi_Carb_Conversion_Parts_2.jpeg

New Autometer Fuel PSI Gauge, Part # 3667. This will replace my old EFI Fuel PSI gauge in the lower left hand dash area under the cluster. The EFI pressure is different to carbs (way higher). The old gauge was 0-100psi and was generally set at 42-45psi. This new gauge is 0-15psi which is easier to view and keep an eye on for carb psi ranges. More precise for smaller increments. My dual 650cfm carbs will be set to 5.5 / 6psi MAX. So trying to keep an eye on 5.5psi on a 0-100psi gauge is impossible lol. I'll get a photo as the build goes on and it's in place. Can't beat Autometer!
/images/656226/Hemi_Carb_Conversion_Parts_6.jpeg

One of the best new parts I have ordered and absolutely crucial to the new carb set up. The Aeromotive dual stage EfI to Carb Regulator. This unit allows me to maintain my Aeromotive electric in tank fuel pump (340lph) and fuel lines (inlet / feed and return). It first takes the pump pressure (usually set for EFI) and controls pump/line pressure, dropping it to whatever we set, generally 14-16 PSI. The secondary regulator then takes it further and controls the carburetor pressure, anywhere from 5-9 PSI. Mine will be set to 5.5 / 6 PSI. Very nice piece!
/images/656226/Hemi_Carb_Conversion_Parts_5.jpeg

The dual regulator has: inlet feed fuel line, return fuel line and 2 ports for feeding the carbs. I'll be blocking one with a 3/8" NPT pipe plug and using -8AN PTFE to feed my two carbs via a custom "fuel log" style set up. -6AN would suffice but since I'm running a single feed line vs. 2, better to have a little more flow and size. Consensus is, either dual or single line feed will work fine, just a matter of appearance and making sure your engine doesn't run lean or run out of puff.
/images/656226/Hemi_Carb_Conversion_Parts_4.jpeg

The regulator also has 2 x 1/8" NPT ports for running pressure gauges. One of the gauges is for the (high pressure) tank side (0-100psi).
/images/656226/Hemi_Carb_Conversion_Parts_3.jpeg

The other 1/8" NPT port is for the carb side (0-15psi). Both PSI gauges are a must have to maintain and keep your fuel pressure set correctly. As you saw before, I also have a fuel PSI gauge in the car to also keep an eye on things. Once set, they should be good for life but, I'm not taking any chances.
/images/656226/Aeromotive_EFI_to_Carb_Regultor1.png

Here's a diagram of how it is set up. Simple. Clean and "if" I ever wanted to go back to EFI (extremely unlikely), it's just a matter of putting the EFI regulator back in. All my EFI stuff; regulator, throttle bodies, rails, etc have been stored safely in a storage container in my garage. I doubt I'll ever go EFI again, not after my fuel / bore wash issues but, they aren't taking up any space safely tucked away.
/images/656226/Aeromotive_EFI_to_Carb_Regultor2.jpeg

Waiting for an engine build is long. There is literally nothing you can do but prepare for its arrival and have everything planned out and the parts ready to go. Here I'm just looking for a nice place to put the new (larger) dual regulator. Tucked just behind the large "Hemi" orange oval air cleaner seems to be the ticket. The current fuel and return line from the tank reach perfectly, one -8AN line out from the right side to feed carbs, 2 x gauges (1 on front with 90 degree elbow facing towards camera and the other facing straight out close to the firewall. Perfect!
/images/656226/US_Shift_TPS_Kit.jpeg

The "US Shift" Throttle Position Sensor Kit. This bolts to the carb and runs in conjunction with the throttle and ECU. I am still running the ECU to control gauges, shift gear display, etc... basically everything but the injectors and anything fuel related.
/images/656226/US_Shift_Throttle_Position_Sensor_Kit.jpeg

Closer up of the TPS... it's a nice unit. Quick shipping, instructions and gear from US Shift.
/images/656226/Hemi_Air_Cleaner1.jpeg

The 540ci came from FHO painted in a deep orange, I was never a real fan of it. Looked more Chev orange than Hemi. I wanted VHT engine enamel Hemi Orange. It's a can spray but don't let that fool you. It's all in the prep and is from my research, the highest rated temp engine paint. Plus... it's a lighter nicer orange. So, I had to take the air cleaner lid to bare metal (only piece of the engine I have) to remove the darker orange and coat it: prime, orange and then clear.
/images/656226/Custom_426_540_Hemi_Decals.jpeg

New custom "540ci HEMI" air cleaner decals from Performance Car Graphics. Great product, fairly prompt delivery but no notification, emails or updates. It just randomly shows up lol. But hey! They made it.
/images/656226/Custom_Gen_2_Hemi_Decal.jpeg

Closer up. With the air cleaner and engine being repainted a different shade of orange, a new decal was required. I got a few spares... they came a long way and I'm not risking fucking up one or it being crooked and having to wait another 4 weeks! They look mint though!
/images/656226/Hemi_Orange_VHT_vs_Other_Orange1.jpeg

Here's a good comparison. The #'s matching (in progress) 440 display engine is VHT Hemi Orange and what I am going with for the 540 Hemi. The air cleaner orange I believe is POR 15 Engine enamel Hemi Orange. It's a more vivid or reddish orange. Different strokes for different folks but I much prefer the lighter VHT Hemi Orange!!
/images/656226/Hemi_Orange_VHT_vs_Other_Orange2.jpeg

Another photo trying to capture it in real world light from a different angle.
/images/656226/Car_Goodies4.jpeg

Summit Racing goodies!
/images/656226/Edelbrock_AVS2_Carbs_650cfm1.jpeg

The new fuel and air power for Lucy! Dual Edelbrock 650cfm "Thunder" Series carbs. The original 426ci Hemis had Carter carbs which these are basically based on.
/images/656226/Edelbrock_AVS2_Carbs_650cfm5.jpeg

Birdseye view. The primary carb has an electric choke, the secondary will just follow orders and have the "manual choke" wide open (as per Edelbrocks instructions for dual carb setups).
/images/656226/Edelbrock_AVS2_Carbs_650cfm6.jpeg

Love them! So oldschool. Out with the "new" (EFI) and in with the "old". Easy. Simple. Reliable.
/images/656226/Edelbrock_AVS2_Carbs_650cfm2.jpeg

AVS2 are the latest in the AVS series and have the "annular" boosters which equals better fuel atomization. Most carbs have dogleg boosters which use 1 large "jet" of fuel. These AVS2 carbs have 8 equally spaced smaller holes resulting in more of a mist vs. jet. Think of it like this: One carb gulps food down whole making it harder and slower to digest. The other (annular) chews it thoroughly making it easier for and faster to digest. Annular boosters eliminate flat spots when the carbs transition from idle to part throttle for better low rpm performance and overall response.
/images/656226/Car_Goodies1.jpeg

2 x Edelbrock calibration kits and 2 x pump nozzle kits. Gives the engine tuner more options to fine tune and dial the engine in. In my opinion, a must have. Off the shelf these apparently work well, go view the feedback and reviews yourself. Start at Summit Racing. Literally 100% possitive 5 stars, almost unheard of!
/images/656226/Car_Goodies3.jpeg

Aeromotive -8AN fittings for the new regulator and 2 x fuel inlet converters for the carbs. Takes it from the normal hose style clamp to a more reliable AN fitting. These will run with the PTFE Fragola lines nicely.
/images/656226/Car_Goodies2.jpeg

Oil filters, gotta have 'em!
/images/656226/Marsh_Hemi3.jpg

A few photos from the engine builder. Looking good. So nice to be able to use most of the parts as they only had 2,000 miles on it. Marsh Motorsports checked over everything with a fine tooth comb to make sure they exceed requirements. So far so good!
/images/656226/Marsh_Hemi1.jpg
/images/656226/Marsh_Hemi2.jpg

Loving the new lighter orange shade. Looks very Hemi!
/images/656226/Marsh_Hemi_Repaint8.JPG

Another 10 photos from the builder. Unlike the last 3, these are very low quality photos but like most engineers, mechanics or engine builders, photography isn't usually their strong points haha. I am grateful to get ANY photos, especially living out of town (3 hours away). Anything to help catalogue proceedings is nice.
/images/656226/Marsh_Hemi_Repaint6.JPG
/images/656226/Marsh_Hemi_Repaint4.JPG
/images/656226/Marsh_Hemi_Repaint5.JPG
/images/656226/Marsh_Hemi_Repaint3.JPG
/images/656226/Marsh_Hemi_Repaint7.JPG
/images/656226/Marsh_Hemi_Repaint9.JPG
/images/656226/Marsh_Hemi_Repaint1.JPG
/images/656226/Marsh_Hemi_Repaint10.JPG
/images/656226/Remflex_426_Hemi_Gaskets.jpeg

Remflex 426 style header gaskets. Part # RFL-6037. I was searching for TTI style gaskets and did my research, everyone loved these, "use Remflex and forget".
/images/656226/Remflex_426_Hemi_Gaskets.jpeg

Fitment and part #.
/images/656226/426_Hemis.jpg

Two street Hemis getting close, mine on the left (obviously). Just waiting on pushrods and for me to run some final parts up to Auckland (carbs, linkage, alternator, belts, etc), then they can start it!
/images/656226/540ci_Hemi_Rebuild.jpg

Not sure about anyone else but these "in build" photos are bad ass!!
/images/656226/Hemi_Build_540_426_572ci.jpg

Can't wait... so close!
/images/656226/540ci_Hemi_Keith_Black_Mopar_4261.jpeg

Wow. What a sexy fucken engine and design.
/images/656226/540ci_Hemi_Keith_Black_Mopar_4262.jpeg

Intake off, still waiting for push rods...
/images/656226/540ci_Hemi_Keith_Black_Mopar_4265.jpeg

Hemis are huge engines that come with huge components. The large rocker assembly testament to that.
/images/656226/540ci_Hemi_Keith_Black_Mopar_4264.jpeg
/images/656226/540ci_Hemi_Keith_Black_Mopar_4263.jpeg
/images/656226/IMG_5489.jpeg

The AR Engineering 1:1 ("straight") throttle linkage kit. Fairly simple but well made kit. I chose 1:1 because I've heard a few stories with progression where big cube engines can run lean when the secondary carb isn't feeding enough waiting to open. Hey! Could be linkage setup or tuner, but with 1:1, that isn't an issue. Plus, throttle reaponse is better with direct 1 to 1 connection. Fact.
/images/656226/IMG_5491.jpeg

Closer up. Part number AR075. Made to suit the Stage V intake and either Edelbrock AFB and AVS or Holley 1850 dual 4bbl carb setups.
/images/656226/Fragola_PTFE_hose_and_fittings.jpeg

The parts required for the custom fuel feeding line from the regulator the to the dual 4bbl carbs. Researching and consensus (even from Edelbrock / Aeromotive) was either 1 line or dual lines (one to each carb) is fine. There really is no difference. I will be running 1 single large -8AN fuel line to both in a "fuel log" style set up. I will share photos once complete. Clean and tidy, ample flow.
/images/656226/Old_pistons.jpeg

While dropping the last parts off at Marsh Motorsports, I grabbed any of the old stuff and items they no longer needed. Once such part... the scuffed pistons from the bore / cylinder wash. When life throws you bad pistons... make ashtrays!!
/images/656226/EFI_junk_going_back_to_Carbs.jpeg

I spreayed down and cleaned up the old EFI. Doubt I will ever use this again, especially as they were more than likely faulty but i could always sell the throttle bodies and I have a big enough garage to store them without hassle. Boxed up and back to carbs!!
/images/656226/Unwide_in_garage.jpeg

Speaking of garages, time for a beer, snooker and relaxation...
/images/656226/Last_of_the_parts_for_540_Hemi.jpeg

Those that know me know I'm vey organised. So, here I am getting the very last parts together for Henrys to reinstall the engine. There really isn't much else to go!
/images/656226/Castrol_EDGE_Synthetic_25W-50_Engine_Oil_5L-3383419.jpeg

The recommended oil by Marsh Motorsports for the 540ci Hemi. Castrol Edge 25W-50. Part # 3383419
/images/656226/Castrol_Edge_25W-50_Oil_2.jpeg

Despite the incorrect advertising at some shops or on some websites, this is a MINERAL oil (NOT synthetic). Confirmed by Castrol themselves and the oils own spec sheet available online.
/images/656226/Castrol_Edge_25W-50_Oil_Specs_Hemi_V8.jpeg

Castrol Edge utilises titanium fluid technology and is Castrol’s strongest and most advanced oils. It's a mineral SAE 25W-50, API SG/CD oil formulated for big bore street machines, V8s, and race cars in either naturally aspirated, supercharged or turbocharged form.
/images/656226/Penrite_ATF-S.jpeg

The Torqueflite-727's new transmission fluid. I did a shit load of research on this and general concensus was, you could run a 727 on ANYTTHING, guys are running tractor fluid with no results. If it's wet, the 727 isn't fussy. However! I would say 80% of owners on Facebook Mopar groups all opted to use the latest (Mopar approved) ATF+4 fluid. The other 20% was a mix of Dextron or the old Ford "Type F". I went with the majority and chose ATF+4 which this Penrite covers. 3 of these 4L bottles will be used to fill the 727 up for the first time.
/images/656226/Penrite_ATF-4.jpeg
/images/656226/Chrysler_Dodge_727_ATF_4.jpeg
/images/656226/Mr_Gasket_160_deg_thermostat_Dodge_Mopar.jpeg

New 160deg Mr Gasket thermostat part # 4366 and new o-ring gasket. I just bought one prior to the cylinder wash incident but it got lost during the engine build. Always nice to get a fresh new one, especially on a brand new engine. The o-rings are also fucken mint. Zero leaks. No soggy cork gaskets or silicon slop.
/images/656226/Billet_Specialties_Thermostat_Housing.jpeg

And here's the Billet Specialties Thermostat Housing itself. Part # BSP-90820. Perfect grove underneath where the o-ring sits for a perfect tight leak free seal. Honestly... if you're having issues with leaks, get one of these bastards.
/images/656226/540HemiDyno1.png

The Hemi finally on the dyno. All went well, very responsive and made decent power, 677hp and 652ft-lb of torque. Time to see if she drives well!
/images/656226/540HemiDyno2.JPG

Dynosheet.